Only a little over a month after the race – but here it is… Pictures are over there--->
As always, I will give you the cliff notes version first - I severely sprained my ankle at mile 6, almost had to drop out at mile 34, but was able to come back to finish 4th overall in 27 hrs 5 min. It rained from 10 PM through 6 AM straight. Very cold rain, heavy fog (Couldn't see much farther than my hands) and wind all night. As miserable as it sounds - It was a fantastic experience that I will never forget.
Have you ever struggled with something so bad that when the deadline came for a decision to be made, you still didn’t know? That’s what happened in the weeks leading up to this race. Ever since I paced for my uncle Dale Humphrey here is 2008, I have wanted to come back and run the entire race myself. From that day it has been my favorite course all time. I have never run on a more challenging and scenic course. To top it off, the people running, volunteering, and crewing for their runners were all top notch as well. I wasn’t able to make it to the race last year because of work, but this year I decided to give it a shot.
My training leading up to the race was very much all over the place. I actually tried something new this time. I tried to work around my family’s schedules, as opposed to the other way around. Therefore, I focused on getting more quality workouts in, as opposed to just more workouts or more mileage. I would say I did more mileage on Harris Hill (Local sledding hill that’s about 85’ high) than anywhere else. I knew the terrain was tough, and wanted my training to mirror that as much as possible. I didn’t want to be wasting my time getting a bunch of junk miles in on the roads. I was out in Salt Lake City 2 weeks before the race, and was able to run in the Wasatch Mountains 2 times out there. I felt prepared training-wise.
However, there’s so much happening in our lives right now. From the kids heading back to school and all that goes along with that, to considering accepting a job out in Los Angeles and moving the entire family out there from innocent little Yorkville, IL, to trying to get my own personal training and USANA business off the ground, to my wife training for her first marathon (Chicago Marathon), to just being here and being available and supportive as a husband and father when my family needs that – Life seemed to take precedence over a race at the time. So as the race approached I started really struggling with the decision to run this race or not. I decided about 1.5 weeks out that I should not run the race. I emailed the race director Larry Pederson and asked what the refund policy was. He said he understood and I could get a full refund if I decided to drop out. Being my stubborn self and not having made my mind up 100% - I said “I’ll get back to you ASAP and let you know for sure”.
In the meantime I discussed the pros and cons with my wife, my oldest daughter, my mom, Uncle Dale, Peter Defty, a pastor friend of mine, God, and just about anyone else who would listen. They were all very supportive. On the Friday before Labor Day I told Uncle Dale, who was driving back from Lean Horse 100 where he finished 4th overall, that I had decided not to run the race and was just waiting until the last few days before the race to let Larry know, just in case. He said ok, but then called back the next day and said “We’re making a detour. We’re heading back down to Yorkville for the weekend, and then heading home (Ely, MN) after Labor Day.” He wanted to know if I could run with him on Sunday and/or Monday. I said sure. As we were running we started discussing the fact that he was heading up to MN, and the race was only 1.5 hrs from his house. It would be very easy for me to just ride up there with them.
I talked to my wife again, and actually struggled with the decision more than any decision I’ve had to make in recent years. I told them on Monday night that I’d go, but was still undecided for sure until they got to our house to pick me up the next day. I had my stuff packed, but could still decide to stay home. I prayed and God’s answer was for me to run the race, but to come back refreshed and dive back into my family’s life with all of the passion and enthusiasm that I put into my racing and training for this race.
So with that I jumped into their car and we were off to Ely for a few days before the race (Where I spent hours looking for the right raincoat because I knew it was going to rain Friday night – foreshadowing here..), then Dale and I would drive his 1972 VW bus over to the pre-race meeting, then drive to the race finish at Caribou Highlands Lodge in Lutsen, MN and sleep in the VW bus the night before the race. Then we’d get on the school bus that takes the runners from the lodge to the starting line in Gooseberry Falls State Park.
The pre-race dinner was cool. Everyone introduced himself or herself after Larry gave the final details of the race. We talked to a few familiar faces and headed out to eat our pre-race dinner. We stopped at a small restaurant along Hwy 61 where we each had a huge bloody steak, baked potato w/tons of sour cream and butter, and some awesome dark chocolate for desert.
We headed back to the lodge, made a few race preparations, and were both asleep in the VW bus by 11:00 PM.
Woke up bright and early (5:00 AM) Friday. Ate our pre-race meal of heavy cream and berries, grabbed our stuff and jumped on the bus for the hour long ride to Gooseberry Falls. We chatted with Susan Donnelly on the bus. She talked about her experience at UMTR this year. Sounds like it wasn’t a good one…
Oddly enough - I felt very relaxed. This is not normal for me. I’m usually a ball of nerves for the entire week before a race, right up to the last minute before the start. This time I felt a sense of calm and confidence. I think a major part of that was knowing that I had a solid plan for this race as far as fueling goes. I tested it at Kettle Moraine earlier this year and it worked great. I would take Vespa every 2.5 hours, Anti-fatigue and Race Caps Supreme every hour, hydrate with NUUN (One tablet per bottle when I refilled), and grab Hammer Gels and food from the aid stations as needed. It’s VERY simple and VERY effective. Taking that doubt about nutrition away was a HUGE advantage for me at Kettle, and I knew it would work here too. I also planned to use REV3 for an energy boost if needed.
8:00 AM and we were off. From the very start I wanted to stay towards the front of the pack. I knew that if I could stay there through the daylight, that as soon as night fell I could start to make some progress on the people ahead of me. Since I wasn’t wearing an Ipod for this race I decided to sing to myself in my head. However, the first song that came to my head was “Blaze of Glory” by Bon Jovi. WHAT!? I hadn’t heard that song in years! Why Bon Jovi?? I am NOT going down in a blaze of glory…. I immediately turned off my Ihead for the remainder of the race…
As we made our way along the first few miles I chatted with Adam Casseday, whom I had met before at Three Days of Syllamo, Andy Holak, and a few others. As we chatted and ran along a very rare smooth section of the course, at about mile 6, I turned my ankle REALLY hard. So hard that my lower leg actually touched the ground, and I heard a crack.
This is actually a normal thing for me to do. In fact I usually do this in every race, and I’m able to just keep running and the pain goes away after a few miles. This felt different. I never stopped running, and just fully assumed that the pain would go away as it had in the past. However, it started to get worse and worse. By the time I got to Beaver Bay (Mile 19.4) it was hurting pretty bad. I grabbed some oranges and other fruit and made my way out of Beaver Bay in some serious pain.
I suffered through the next 5 miles. With the steep inclines and rocky/rooty terrain it became harder and harder to maneuver without feeling some intense pain. I had to slow down to a walk for most of this 5-mile section. Up hills were not bad, but downhills were horrible. The temperature began to rise along with my pain level, and I was starting to become discouraged. Here I am at mile 21 or 22, and I can barely walk. I wasn’t angry because it wasn’t like this was something that I could control. I was actually very accepting of the fact that I might not be able to finish. Just discouraged because I felt like my training was pretty much right on for this race, and I felt the best I have ever felt mentally and physically coming into it.
I started to do math in my head, wondering if I could limp all the way to mile 50, and at least get a 50-mile finishers medal and call it a day. As a few runners passed me, they offered their support. Adam Schwartz-Lowe offered encouragement as he seemingly skated by in his Hokaoneones. Funny, I had just heard about those shoes a day before this race, and there they were. Chris Hanson seemed genuinely concerned, and said “My dad’s up here at the next aid station. I’m going to tell him to make sure to have the walking poles out for you. I brought them with just in case someone was injured and needed them.” He asked my name and race number, and disappeared on down the trail. Wasn’t too much longer and I finally made it into Silver Bay (Mile 24.3).
I asked if anyone had ice. No ice. Helen Lavin (Women’s winner in 2008) was very helpful, offering many suggestions, and reminding Chris Hanson’s dad to grab those poles. He took off for his car, which was a ways away. In the meantime I suggested I take off my shoe and sock to see what things looked like. An aid-station worker quickly said “Don’t do it. Do not do that.” I agreed. Helen offered me some Ibuprofen. Hmmmm. I had packed some in my drop bags, but not until mile 62.2. I wondered if it was too early to start taking Ibuprofen. After thinking about it, and some reassurance from Helen and Scott Meyers’ wife, I took it.
I ate some food (Forget what), and then Helen told me to head out and she’d catch up with me when Chris’ dad got back with the poles. I hobbled quickly out of the aid station and in about 10 minutes Helen came running up behind me with the poles. After fiddling with them for a few minutes I decided that they might actually be more trouble than they were worth, because I had never used them before. It was kind of like trying to use crutches, but while holding two water bottles at the same time, and going up and down some serious terrain with big roots and rocks. Not a good combo…
That being said, the willingness of everyone at that aid station to help me out completely lifted my spirits. I was in a rut heading into that aid station, but heading out I felt a renewed confidence. They were there to support the other runners I was running against, and they seemingly dropped everything they were doing to help me out without thinking about it twice. I can’t say enough about the quality of people I have met at these races, and especially the folks up there in Minnesota. TOP NOTCH.
Still hobbling I moved along slowly for the next few miles. More runners passed me. Maybe 3 total. Then it happened. The Ibuprofen had kicked in and all of the sudden the edge was off and I could move a bit faster and faster with each step. That’s when I knew I was going to finish. I think my eyes turned green like the transformation of Bruce Banner to the Incredible Hulk. Holy crap. I was a new man! Let’s do this!
I passed a few of the runners that had passed me while I was hobbling along and caught back up with Scott Meyers, an ultra veteran. Scott has been at most of the races that I have been at, and I have seen him many times. I just never had a chance to talk to him. We ended up sticking together for the next 5-6 miles and got to know each other. Talking with him helped pass the time, and I got a lesson on politics after I confessed that I know nothing about politics. He had some great stories about some of the races he has done, and I just really enjoyed his company. He kept telling me to go ahead and pass, but I was enjoying our conversation too much.
Before I knew it we were to the aid station at Country Road 6 (Mile 42). I ate quite a bit here, including but not limited to about 75 grapes, a cup of tomato soup, a full grilled cheese sandwich, some coffee, and some cookies. Feeling like a new man, I quickly headed out.
I remember uncle Dale telling me that these next two sections (about 15.5 miles) were quite runnable. So I decided to try to push it. I ended up catching up to Scott again, who had headed out ahead of me. This time I accepted his invitation to scoot by him. I kept pushing, almost falling off of the boardwalks that crossed the beaver dams a few times, and ended up passing two or three more runners through this section. I came into Finland (Mile 50) full of energy and ready to rock. Some of the people who had seen me at the previous aid stations were amazed that I had come back so strong after looking so bad not so long ago. I ate as much as I could here, including more soup, grapes, and an avocado, and headed out.
At this point it started to get really dark. I switched my headlight on as I maneuvered the single track into the vast darkness of the forest. This was it. It’s a whole new ballgame when the sun goes down. The forest sucked me in as the winds started whipping and whirling the trees, and the huge pines hissed. What a beautiful experience, to be there in that vast expanse of the Superior National Forest, one with nature. I felt ALIVE. I imagined I was an Indian 200 years ago chasing down his prey. I floated down the trail, seemingly flying over the rocks, roots, and hills.
Through this next section I passed a few more runners who had passed me while my ankle was hurting and couldn’t run. As I came into Sonju Lake Road (Mile 58) a few crew members for other runners assumed it was them and called out their name as I came in. At first I was like “No, I’m Nolan, why??” Then I caught on… I ate a few things real quick here, downed another Vespa and hit the trail.
I really don’t remember too much here because I was very focused on pushing my pace as hard as I could. I knew the toughest section of the race was coming up and I needed to make up time here and now, while the terrain was still very runnable. After a while I emerged from the forest onto a gravel road. Whoa, a flat surface! I followed the trail markers along the road for seemingly 2 miles. I was so excited to see a smooth surface I must have been doing 7-minute miles and I worked up a sweat doing so. I finally made it into Crosby Manitou (Mile 62.2).
I knew that once I got here, it was going to be TOUGH. I paced for my uncle Dale in 2008 from here to the finish, so I sort of remember what it was like. I grabbed some stuff from my drop bag, and asked the aid station workers what the weather was looking like. Rain?? I knew it was supposed to rain, but was looking for an update to see if I needed my raincoat here or if I could make it to the next spot where I had a drop bag with another raincoat. They said it wasn’t supposed to rain for another 2 hours. Not enough time for me to get to the next drop bag, but I was sweating pretty good and figured a little rain would actually feel pretty good. I asked how far it was to the next aid station. They all looked at me sympathetically and said it was along ways, and that it was a very tough section, 9.4 miles total.
I knew this was one of the most dreaded sections of the race for everyone. Dale said that people talk about how hard this section is all the time, and many people actually skip it if they are doing training on the course through the year. The night before the race, as we studied the map, he said “They say the devil lives down there…..” in his spookiest, creepiest voice with his head cocked sideways and one eye squinted shut. That conversation stuck in my head through the whole section. The way things started to go, “they” might be right….
As soon as you leave the Crosby Manitou aid station you can hear a river flowing far off through the forest. The terrain in this section IS pretty tough. There are many spots where you’re hopping from huge bolder to huge bolder, while going down a 70-degree drop off. You start to wonder – “Is this really the trail??”, and as you get closer to the river it continues to drop seemingly endlessly as the river gets louder and louder. Once you get close to it the power of the raging water is obvious, but only by the sound since it’s completely dark. With a glance in the right direction with my headlight I see the water raging over the boulders. Kind of like shining a light on a monster in the closet.
As I made my way back up the mountain that was on the other side of the river, I ran as much as could, which was not much. Many sections consisted of almost climbing hand over fist up piles of boulders, then out to an opening on top of a mountain, then to the edge of a cliff which was luckily marked with four reflective Xs (XXXX) to make sure people didn’t run off the edge of the trail into oblivion in the dark of the night.
About a half hour into this section it started to rain. About an hour and half early according to the last aid station people. Dale had warned me that if it did rain, it would probably be cold. He was right. At first I couldn’t tell if it was more wind, but then as the drops made their way through the trees and down onto me on the trail, I shuddered. It was freezing cold. It wasn’t just sprinkling either. It started pouring. It would pour for a half an hour, stop for 10 minutes, then start again. I seriously prayed for the rain to stop many times. Soon the breaks between the rain disappeared and it was a constant cold, heavy, unforgiving rain.
Soon I started having trouble seeing because a light fog had developed along with the rain. Then the light fog became thick within an hour or so, and the rain became a deluge. The fog was so thick that I couldn’t see much further than my hand in front of me. How I stayed on the trail and didn’t get lost is a mystery to me, but I would have to say it had much to do with Larry’s excellent trail marking. To not get lost in that heavy fog and rain – at night – was a miracle. At one point I tried to dim my headlight, like you do in a vehicle when it’s too foggy with the brights on, but that didn’t help at all. Then I tried to turn my light off, just to see if that would help. I had to stop because it was darker than dark. I closed my eyes, then opened them and it was just so dark there was no difference. That freaked me out a little bit. I quickly switched my headlight back on. Given the terrain in this section (Basically the water from the rain created a mess of mud up to my ankles, with hidden roots and rocks at every step.) There was no way I could run. I was relegated to walking.
As I walked through the darkness of the night, once in a while I would hear laughing, or voices. Most likely campers out there somewhere, but of course I thought of what Dale had said “The devil’s down there!” I knew it was a joke but it made me think, and more than a few times I snapped my head back to make sure he wasn’t right behind me. I started to shiver from being soaked to the bone for so long, and not being able to run at all to keep my body temperature up. I started to wonder if I should try to find a good tree to sit under and wait out the rain. I never did. My hands were so cold that I couldn’t even feel them to be able to open my Vespa. I had to resort to caveman tactics and find a sharp rock, then try to smash the Vespa open between the two rocks, and try not to spill any. In the process I got some dirt and gravel with the Vespa, but I didn’t care at all. It was in this section too where my backup watch for my Garmin 405 (Which only lasts about 7 hrs) shorted out from the heavy rain.
As I trudged into the next few aid stations, it was raining so hard the aid station workers said “There’s no need to even stand under the tarps.” They were right. I just grabbed whatever I could – Mainly hot soup, and ate a cup, then walked out of the aid stations with another cup.
It was between Sugarloaf (Mile 72) and Cramer Road (Mile 77) that something weird started to happen to me. I think it was the hypnotizing effect of the fog and rain swirling in the light of my headlight for so long, I started to get sleepy. I soon found myself having to stop so I could close my eyes for a break and not fall on the nasty terrain (Couldn’t even take your eye off the trail for a brief second to rest your eyes). I started fishing through all of pockets to see if there was something that I could eat or maybe a piece of candy to keep me awake. I ended up finding a packet of REV 3 that thought would come in handy at some point. I added that to my water and started drinking that. It started to help, but the urge to just fall asleep while walking was still very strong.
I just kept having a feeling as if the people behind me were catching up as I walked. Sure I was walking fast, but I was still walking and I’m not used to walking for that long. Nobody ever caught me.
Pretty soon I could hear the mad rush from the Temperance River. I started to think I was coming up to the Temperance River, but I was soon making my way away from the sound of raging water. I started wondering if I was going the wrong way, but I kept going… Soon I saw something I thought would never come. I could see the outline of the majestic pine trees that had been engulfing me the entire night. What a welcome sight. With the light came increased visibility, and therefore, the ability to finally run after walking for the last 20 miles. I happily picked up the pace and started running as hard as I could through the slosh of mud, rocks, and roots. I hoped that the sound of the raging Temperance River would return, meaning that I hadn’t made a wrong turn. Luckily for me it did, and as it did I started running even harder. I could smell the campfire from the aid station, and finally came into Temperance River (Mile 84) ready to rock it into the finish after walking for so long.
I think it was roughly 6am. This was the first aid station I had come to since about 10 PM the night before that I had a drop bag at. I had been soaked to the bone in pouring rain and mud for that entire time. I was looking forward to getting into my drop bag here and getting a long sleeve technical shirt on, as well as a raincoat, because it was still lightly raining, and I had no idea what the next few hours would bring. I immediately asked them if they could find my bag. They all looked at each other and finally one of the aid station workers said “Well, we don’t have them yet. We didn’t expect to see anyone yet according to our calculations, so we left all of the drop bags in the vehicle that just left to go get more firewood.” I absolutely couldn’t believe what I was hearing. After going that long freezing my tail off, my bag wasn’t there.
I stood there in the rain in disbelief, resisted the urge to become a complete jerk, and calmly asked what they had to eat. They brought me over to one side of the aid station and showed me some of the soups and grilled cheeses that they had made. I wolfed down a grilled cheese, a bowl of soup, and some other stuff as the workers scrambled to find some clothing that they could lend to me. I also petted a dog that was there. I was antsy and ready to hit the trail hard after walking all night. I finally got all dressed with the outer shell being a women’s Chicago Marathon technical shirt (Hey – you gotta do what you gotta do right??). Of course I had my bottles refilled as well. I added more REV3 to one of them, and took another Vespa.
Just as I was getting ready to head out the aid station worker came back with the drop bags and more firewood. I laughed and started taking off my cute top so I could put on the shirts that I had in my bags. After doing so, I had another grilled cheese, and one of the workers asked if I wanted more soup too. Of course! She said “It might be hot”. I let that go through one ear and out the other and took a big drink, promptly burning my tongue really bad. As I looked at the soup, there was also a fly in it. Once again, I said nothing other than thank you, because I knew they were having a rough time in this weather as well. Then I was finally on my way. Helen Lavin walked me out of the aid station and explained to me as we both walked very fast, what I could expect over the next section. That was very nice of her to do, and I really appreciated that.
As soon as Helen gave me the last bit of detail, I started running as hard as I could along the Temperance River. I did so all the way to the bridge that crosses the river, and to the trail that takes you up the other side of the river the opposite way. I was running uphill as hard as I could. When I couldn’t take it anymore I slowed to a power walk. I was bound and determined to finish as strong as I could, and to get this race over with ASAP. I threw off the extra shirts I had just put on because now I was sweating. My legs were still very fresh, and the REV3 was starting to flow through my veins as I sipped on it when I could. I was feeling possessed. I was able to run just about every section of the last 18 or so miles, and some of the most difficult climbs on the course were in that last 18 miles. Right about now I was thinking that all of those Harris Hill repeats had really paid off.
I was also thinking that this might be my last race for a while, if not forever, and I was going to push harder than I ever have so late in a 100-mile race. I wanted to see how hard I could push the pace on this muddy, rocky, rooty terrain. I blasted my way through Sawbill aid station (Mile 90), then ran as hard as I could up Oberg Mountain, and into the Oberg Mountain aid station (Mile 95.5), then it felt like I sprinted up Moose Mountain, but had to power walk up the INSANE initial climb up. That was a killer so late in the race. But again, I ran 98% of that last section, including most up hills. I could feel drool dripping down my chin as continued to push the pace, even though my body was trying to tell me no. I was at a point on the trail where I wasn’t aware that I was so close to the finish. As I turned a corner I saw a sign for the ski lifts or gondolas or something like that. I knew I was close, and soon I saw the road that leads to the hotel/finish line, and also my Aunt Peggy was sitting right there in her car waiting for me. I could barely see her because it was so foggy. She jumped out of her car and yelled “NOLAN! You’re in 4th place!” I knew I was only a few hundred yards away from the finish so I threw her my water bottles, and extra crap and sprinted down the road towards the hotel/finish line. I couldn’t see much further than 50 yards in front or behind me. As I sprinted I kept looking back to see if anyone was close. However, I couldn’t see far enough to comfortably slow down and take it easy. I also wondered if maybe I could pass whoever might be in front of me. So I kept running as fast as I could into the finish. I didn’t pass anyone or get passed, and so I crossed the line in 27 hrs, 5 min in 4th place overall. Turns out I was close to passing the 3rd place runner Adam Schwartz-Lowe. He finished 5 minutes ahead of me. We chatted in the locker room of the indoor pool area after we gathered ourselves. Great guy…
I called my wife and immediately upon hearing her voice, I lost it. All of the emotion from the injury early on, to some warm temps during the day, then the heavy rain and fog through the night, to my reawakening at the end of the race overflowed. It was like the dam finally broke. Throughout the race I prayed, I thought about my wife and kids at home…. just lots of emotion went into this one. I just thank God that I was able to glorify Him by overcoming so much before and during this race.
My ankle was pretty swollen as I pulled my socks and shoes off, but not too bad. It would balloon up over the next 2 days, but after taking high doses of USANA’s Biomega fish oil, getting it adjusted by Dr. Schutt, and icing it, it got better within 2 weeks. I was actually able to run on it after about 3-4 days as I helped my daughter’s soccer team shag soccer balls for the Yorkville varsity soccer team.
The post-race party at the finish line/hotel was awesome. This is one of my favorite parts of the event. As runners from the 100-miler, 50-miler, and marathon come in all together the finishers, volunteers, and crews are all gathered there eating, drinking, and being merry around a campfire and cheer the runners as they come in. I got a chance to talk to Brian Peterson, the winner, who is a class act. Very humble guy, and a great runner for sure. I also talked with many other people who I have seen at other races, or talked to through email etc… Just a great time. Then of course they give the awards out at about 9 PM, when a good portion of the runners have made their way into the finish/
Since the race I have had lots of things going on, and therefore was not able to make this report a priority. I took a job with a construction company based out of North Carolina, and due to extensive travel, and working 12 hours/day, I haven’t been able to run at all. I have mixed emotions. Running has had to take the back seat to work, and spending time with family when I get any free time now. However, I am extremely thankful to have found a job in the extremely saturated construction job market, and am confident that God’s plan for my family is a good one.
I don’t think that was my last race though. I’ll throw my name in the hat for Western States again this year, and see what happens.
Once again, thanks to Larry, his family (Real and running families both…), and all of the volunteers who made this event another successful one. We all had to deal with some crazy weather, and I think everyone overcame that challenge very well. I would recommend this race, as well as any and all other races that Larry heads up.
Look forward to seeing you on the trail someday…..